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My Oberheim OB-X story and restoration

The Oberheim OB-X synthesizer stands as a hallmark of analog synthesizer excellence, emerging during the vibrant era of electronic music in the late 1970s. Designed by Tom Oberheim, this iconic instrument epitomizes the lush, rich sounds that analog synthesis is renowned for. With its distinctive sound architecture featuring multiple oscillators, versatile filters, and robust modulation capabilities, the OB-X quickly became a favorite among musicians seeking to craft expansive pads, searing leads, and intricate soundscapes.

One of the OB-X’s defining characteristics is its polyphonic capability, allowing for the simultaneous generation of multiple notes, a feature that was groundbreaking at the time of its release in 1979. This polyphonic prowess, combined with its warm, organic sound, made the OB-X a staple in both studio productions and live performances, gracing countless hit records across various genres.

Beyond its sonic prowess, the OB-X’s sleek design and intuitive interface contributed to its enduring popularity among musicians and synthesizer enthusiasts. Despite the evolution of technology, the Oberheim OB-X remains a cherished instrument, celebrated for its timeless sound and its significant influence on the landscape of electronic music.

It was an early March of 2008 after about a year of desperate searching, I’ve finally found it – an Oberheim OB-X. One of the two synths that inspired me the most as a kid (the other synth was a Pro One). The OB-X record in question was Jean Michel Jarre: Magnetic Fields which was his main synth for the whole album and which I really liked to listen. Many many years later to find out which synth was behind all those fantastic lush and fat sounding pads. If you want to know what I’m talking about, load Magnetic Fields Part 1 to your player and listen to the intro.

The unit itself originates from the famous Audio Playground keyboard museum on Florida. The price was all right, but the cosmetic condition was horrid. To be honest, the only thing that interested me was the fact that it was an 8 voice version and that all 8 voices have recently been checked at their service. I wasn’t much worried with the rest aside the fact the unit will be shipped from Florida to Chicago and something might go wrong during transport.

Arrival and inspection
Well, as expected the unit was in terrible cosmetic condition (part of the reason why Audio Playground decided to get rid of it). Keys were in bad condition as well, dirty as hell with broken / damaged bushings that would make them wobble and give that nasty “clack” sound when pressed. I was very nervous, TBH.

Restoration
The first thing I did was replace the bushings on the keyboard. I also washed all the keys, and aligned key backs (check the photo to see what I mean by non aligned keys!). Each key is held by a screw and it takes a while to take them all down. Then to remove the holders as well, and a spring from each of them, clean everything and then approach the bushings, remove the old ones and install new ones. Cleaning of the keyboard contacts is assumed, for each key several times. Though summarized in just 4 pics, that was a lot of work actually!

Next thing was replacing old capacitors in the PSU and cleaning all the switch contacts and potentiometers. I also replaced all the electrolyte and tantalum caps while the boards were out. While open, I did small pimpn’ by installing a green led for the Tape check. Some of the original red LEDs were dead, so replaced them as well. There was one dead CMOS chip that would regulate turning LEDs on and off, and that was the only chip I had to replace (it cost me $3 or less).

Paint work
There was no much to think. If you look at the condition of the metal surface all the scratches and marks, only one thing to do, repaint the whole thing. I secured the parts which should be protected and hit the rest with standard matte black spray. Applied total of three layers to ensure proper results.

Custom side panels
A friend (Chris) made a pair of nice side panels for OB-X based on those of OB-8 which I gave him. Material was cherry wood but we decided to modify it to mahogany (using stain and lacquer) which worked like a charm. I also restored the rusty screws, cleaned them fully and painted in black for some more pimpin’.

Calibration and tuning
The rest of the work was to calibrate all the voltages to original factory specs and tune the machine. Tuning was pain given a lot of response changes once once you put down the upper motherboard. So you have to do it again. And again. But in the end somehow I’ve managed it.

Final results and impression
In my book, Oberheim OB-X is one of the best sounding polyphonic synthesizers ever. I was lucky get one right on time before the “analogue bubble”. It is hard, and perhaps unfair to compare a discrete based design to a chip based one, but there is definitely a difference in sound. For example, while OB-8 will cut through most dense mix, its oscillators do not have this softness and width of an OB-X. This is perhaps where this synth’s beauty lies, in its discrete VCOs. Luckily, the design incorporates a 12dB filter slope (which is IMO a crucial thing for polyphonic synths) and in combination with it, some magnificent and wonderful sounds can be created on this machine.

When I removed the keyboard this is what I found. A lot of mess and a bunch of dead / broken bushings.

As noted before, the unit was pretty beaten up.

And here as well.

Pretty nasty, isn’t it?

Actually horrid.

Look at the dirt of the keyboard and the “alignment” of individual keys.

After removing all the keys, time to reach the bushings and also to do some aligning of those little hooks.

Dead bushings in many cases were easily removed. You can see why.

After removing the springs i prepared the bag of new bushings. Big thanks to Syntaur.

And installed them.

Keys sent to where they belong to.

In the meantime I prepared for the paint job.

First layer on. Looks better.

After three layers looks much better.

Switches cleaned with contact cleaning spray.

To ensure proper voltages, the PSU has been recapped. I also removed the notorious tantalum caps.

Chris K provided me with those. I did the drilling and some finishing to the wood (spot the sandpaper).

When restoring something, don’t forget the small things like screws. It does make a difference once you clean them and paint for some sexy look.

So. Before…

And now, one month later. Over 40 working hours went into this.

OB-X in action:

 

 

 

Matrix 1000 Factory Presets

So you changed the battery in your Matrix 1000 and now all of the presets are gone. You go to the web to search for the factory patches, only to find incomplete archives. Typically people would modify a few of the factory presets, probably forget about it and then upload it online not knowing their bank is no longer genuine. I know the feeling, cause I downloaded all of the banks from the web pages, forums, groups, etc only to learn the patches that I hear do not match the official patch list. So I decided to figure out what’s going on and where the original factory bank is. TLDR: it isn’t on the web (well, it wasn’t until now), I had to manually rebuild it, took me two days to gather everything and rebuild it piece by piece as Lieutenant Columbo would do. A lot of help was in the patch listing names, i.e. it says Brass yet there is a helicopter preset on that location, but in another copy you actually find that Brass patch and figure out this preset was not replaecd or modified with something else. One of the banks that helped me a lot was Moby’s own M1000 bank. It was so fortunate that he did not edit from the front of the bank (which is what people normally would do) but from the back of the bank and that was the game changer. At this point I knew I have something useful to start with! The rest was easy. I went into the patch librarian and moved the correct patches from several banks into the final edit version.

All in all here is the archive for which I guarantee 100% it is accurate and contains all of the factory presets for the Matrix 1000 synthesizer. Patch names can be downloaded from below as well. Keep in mind only two first banks are the user area, the rest is the ROM section which can not be deleted or manipulated. Also to clear one little myth that floats around, not all of the patches that are in the User area originate / exist in the ROM. Yes, many are from the ROM section, but there are at least 60 patches that do not exist in the ROM section and I believe they were exclusively designed for the Matrix 1000.

Matrix 1000 Factory Patches – as the title says, this is the archive that contains Bank 0 and Bank 1

Matrix 1000 Patch Names – the above file is not much use without knowing the patch names. So here they are

Why would anyone want factory patches?
Some people prefer things being genuine, and let’s just add to the fact that back in the 90’s Matrix series (6, 6R, 1000) were all over electronic music. It was literally the go-to synth for that genre, as it had MIDI yet was very affordable, typically half the price of Xpander and MKS-80 which was something not everyone would afford. Don’t let the “ahh the early 90’s while analog synths were cheap” phrase fool you. MKS-80 and Xpander and Matrix 12 were NEVER cheap, even back then out of reach for many, because they all had MIDI. Now…. the Jupiters 4 and 8 were cheap… You could buy either of the two or the Matrix 6 for the same amount of money, but the Matrix had MIDI, which the former did not.

Feel free to comment, or add something or just say thanks in the comment section below. And now it’s time to enjoy the Matrix 1000.

Another Oberheim OB-X saved from harm

While Clusterchord has been burning midnight oil lately in his studio I’ve been working on his OB-X. This is the third time I have been working on this machine. First time was some minor service when PWM wasn’t working right. Turned out to be a bad IC in the PWM section of the digital board. At that point I’ve noticed unit has a lot of old CMOS chips, so i replaced them with new ones.

Fast forward two years later, Clusterchord contacted me to do a complete refurbish of the boards inside. No problemo. I replaced VCF trimmers on the voice boards with multi turn. Replaced all the caps with new ones (also found one voice board was dead). Not a big deal it was just one dead TL op amp. Fixed it. So i call Clusterchord to pickup his unit. He takes it away, gets home, and the unit no longer functions correctly. Autotune no longer works. Horrid s/r ratio of the unit with some constant noise going on in the background.

So he returns it back. I check all the chips, everything ok. No clue what the heck is the problem. At that point I got a bit mad because 24 hours before, the unit worked flawlessly. So Ii’ve removed all boards out, resoldered all voice board connectors, all male molex connectors on the motherboard and digital board. Assemble it all back, same problem. This was really starting to become frustrating. (!)

While messing with molex connectors I’ve noticed that at one point the noise got low a bit. So i figured out the source of the problem. Female molex connectors were oxidized, old, and wires were lousy, two of them partly broken (which mean they would conduct while synth is in one position and not in other). So…. I disassembled all the plastic molex connectors, bought new pins, new wire and started a nice whole day work of manually rewiring the whole thing by building new connections. To further prevent oxidation and enhance the connection of the wires on the place where they were being crimped i simply soldered them. This took a lot of hours but it was worth it.

Red wires = something like 160 new connections that I had to build

Power up the unit and the Autotune now works! Great! Noise was … well almost gone. I’ve realized there were two type of noises actually. One was digital like, and this one was now gone. Another one was hiss and after some research turned out to be one of the output op amps. Replaced it, no more noise. Great!

Other source of the noise was one bad IC in this area

At this point the unit worked perfectly! So I called Clusterchord, who at that time was burning some midnight oil to come and pick up the unit. New day he arrives to officially pick up the unit. But after some close inspection we figured out the Decay of the filter doesn’t work right. So he leaves the unit for another day for me to fix it. I start the oscilloscope, start digging through the signal path of the VCF Decay, I get close to one CMOS, and out of nowhere the unit goes totally crazy! I mean totally. It started producing a wild sounding drone, no controls worked right, it was almost frozen with this loud unison tone going out, no matter you press the key or not.

At this point i had no idea what the hell is wrong. Because at that point ALL of the molex connectors were brand new. All of the capacitors on digital board were new. All of the ICs (LOGIC and op amps) were brand new. What the hell is going on!!! In fact I was so mad I returned the unit and said, “dude you get someone else to fix this one, it just gets worse and worse the more we work on it.”.

Fast forward 1 year. While Clusterchord has been burning some midnight oil I sent him an email saying that perhaps I should check the OB-X because I have some new ideas about downgrading his unit to non-Encore and then doing simple side by side test against my OB-X. Mind you, my unit is original and it’s easy to follow the schematics. He had Encore modified unit, and it was a bit harder without schematic. Plus someone did some extra mods on his CPU board. Not sure why. So he brings the unit and I start some more work. At that point the machine is still behaving totally crazy, releasing only digital drones, almost as if it was a PPG. You just don’t know where to start with the service when in such condition! Really frustrating.

New trimmers and battery in the house

But i took it calmly. First I’ve replaced old trimmers on the digital board. And I found three tantalum caps that weren’t replaced on the panel board (thanks to The Real MC for info about what they do). Also the battery was dead, so I’ve installed a new one. Then I took out Encore, installed it into my unit to verify that it work properly and is not the source of the “unit gone crazy” problem. Encore turned out working perfectly. So I’ve installed it back into Clusterchord’s unit. I knew at this point that I will fix his unit. I just knew it. It was only a matter of inspiration.

And now comes the turning point – has to do with servicing Moog Voyagers which i do from time to time. One thing I’ve noticed (and i need to thank Rudi Linhard for info) is that so many Voyagers have problems and it always turns out to be the Texas Instruments chip. So I’ve came with idea – hey, what if that was the case with this OB-X. Four years ago I’ve replaced all of the chips, what if some of those has failed in the meantime.

<dramatic pause> You bet it was! Turned out exactly that. The reason why the machine was going crazy was because 2 of the brand new ICs that i have installed 4 years ago were dead. Can you guess who was the manufacturer? TI – which stands for Texas Instruments. Damn!!! Of course i never expected this outcome. To make things worse, each time i would painstakingly trace things with an oscilloscope looking for the source of the problem i totally ignored these chips, yet the search would always bring me to them! But i still ignored them knowing they are just 4 years old, they can’t be the source of the problem. I was wrong! Thanks again to Rudi Linhard for inspiration!

Goodbye TI chips!

I’ve replaced all 4 chips in that area that were TI, and now the unit finally works!!! Yesterday I’ve calibrated digital and bender boards to factory specs and as of this moment, the unit is finally FULLY functional. This is OB-X was bumping on and off the service bench for the past 4-5 years or so, always something a problem, never working right. And now these days are finally over!!!

Now Clusterchord can take it and burn some midnight oil!

Bonus images:

The search would always lead me to de-mux chip (left of the screws) but since chip was new I’ve ignored it.

I was surprised by the completely dead battery. So I’ve installed a new one. Measured the current draw, and according to calculation this one should last 13.7 years:

OB-X is massive !!!! I’m glad that it is completely fixed now.