Installed the LED based display. It is quite bright if not too bright actually.

So I’ve drilled a hole in the back and installed a 1k LOG pot there.

And installed 22 ohm resistor in series. Together cutting on the LED supply current. Display can now be dimmed. At fully dimmed position it is roughly as bright as stock EL Foil based one. Important, the resistor is crucial, else you might damage the LED unit.

I’ve installed a FF based Gotek drive. Actually the stock M0 jumper setting turned out to be working perfectly fine but I have moved it to S0 position later, to be on the safe side. FF is superior to HxC as it will never make the unit freeze during floppy disk change phase (if you change it too fast).
EDIT: I just noticed the Gotek had an old HxC firmware. While the FF was the latest version.

New power supply in. This is a must! It is known that many Akai S1000’s have been damaged due to faulty PSU’s that are now showing their age (expired resource). This Akai came with a Meanwell RS35-5 power supply which previous owner sent separately cause he didn’t know how to install it. I’ve drilled two holes in the bottom of the unit and screwed the new power supply in. It is crucial to either restore the existing power supply or purchase a new one. Else you are risking to seriously damage the unit!

You can use existing wires just fine. As long as you know what you are doing. Disclaimer: I will never answer any question that involves electricity.

Ok the memory cards can be tricky to install correctly and work if you have mixed sized boards. Here is the setup that I have found via trial and error. Slot 1: 2MB Slot 2: 8MB Slot 3: 8 MB Slot 4: 2 MB

Once you’re done, toss it on top of the S1100 just so you can show others you have both.